The Capital of Coziness: An Insider’s Guide to My Beloved Trondheim, Norway
I need you to settle in for this one. This isn’t just another post from me, Frank, at A Tiny Traveler. This isn’t just another city guide. This is a love letter. It’s a heartfelt, passionate, and ridiculously detailed ode to a city that I didn’t just visit, but a city where I lived. A city that became my home for five incredible years while I was wrestling with my PhD at NTNU. A city that quietly, without any fuss, stole a massive piece of my heart and has never given it back.
We are going to Norway, but we’re bypassing the usual suspects for a moment. We’re heading north, to the place where the river meets the fjord, to the city of Vikings, students, and a level of coziness so profound they have a special word for it. We are going to Trondheim.
There’s a specific feeling I can recall from my years in Trondheim that perfectly captures its soul. It’s the sensation of walking across the old, red-painted wooden bridge, the Gamle Bybro, on a crisp October morning. The air is sharp and clean, carrying the faint, woody scent of the surrounding forests. Below you, the deep, dark waters of the Nidelva river flow silently, perfectly reflecting the iconic, candy-colored wooden warehouses that line its banks, their crooked stilts dipping into the water. In the distance, the colossal, gothic spires of the Nidaros Cathedral rise above the rooftops, often shrouded in a soft, mystical fog. And in that moment, there’s a profound sense of peace. A feeling of being in a place that is both a vibrant, living city and a timeless, ancient saga.
NTNU
I arrived in Trondheim as a bright-eyed, slightly terrified PhD student, expecting long, dark winters and a reserved Scandinavian populace. I found those things, yes, but I also discovered a city with a warmth that defies its latitude. I found a community powered by the youthful, creative energy of the Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU), a place where cutting-edge research happens in buildings just a stone’s throw from where Viking kings were hailed. I discovered a city that doesn’t just endure the winter but embraces it, turning darkness into an art form with candles, warm blankets, and the untranslatable, soul-hugging concept of koselig (a kind of profound coziness and contentment).
This is not a city that shouts for your attention. It doesn’t have the in-your-face grandeur of Paris or the frantic energy of London. Trondheim’s magic is a slow burn. It’s in the quiet satisfaction of a hike through the city’s backyard forest, Bymarka, reaching a peak just in time to see the fjord bathed in the ethereal glow of the midnight sun. It’s in the taste of a perfect waffle with brown cheese at a tiny, family-run cafe in the cobblestoned neighborhood of Bakklandet. It’s in the shared joy of the first outdoor beer of the year at the modern waterfront of Solsiden, a collective celebration of the sun’s return.
So, this guide is my everything. It’s the culmination of five years of exploration, of finding the secret paths, the best coffee, the coziest corners, and the most breathtaking views. I’m going to take you far beyond the tourist checklist and show you my Trondheim, the city that became my home. Get ready to experience the true heart of Norway.
Before You Find Your Inner Trønder: Essential Trondheim Logistics
Planning a trip to Norway can feel daunting, especially when you hear whispers about the prices (we’ll get to that, I promise!). But Trondheim is wonderfully straightforward once you know the ropes.
When to Go: Embracing the Four Distinct Seasons of Trondheim
Your experience of Trondheim will be completely different depending on when you visit. There is no single “best” time; there is only the best time for the experience you want.
Winter & The Northern Lights (November – February):
The Vibe: The season of koselig. The days are short, and the city is plunged into a long, beautiful “blue hour.” This is when Trondheim truly shines. The streets are lit with fairy lights, cafes are filled with the glow of candles, and the snow often blankets the city in a magical silence.
Pros: Your best chance to see the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). While not as guaranteed as in Tromsø, they frequently dance over the city on clear nights. It’s the ultimate cozy season, with fewer tourists.
Cons: It’s cold (average temps hover around 0°C to -10°C / 32°F to 14°F) and dark. Many outdoor activities are limited.
Spring & The Return of the Sun (March – May):
The Vibe: A city waking up with a collective sigh of joy. The snow melts, the days rapidly get longer, and Norwegians celebrate the return of the sun with an infectious passion. The 17th of May, Syttende Mai (Norway’s Constitution Day), is an incredible spectacle of national pride, parades, and traditional dress (bunad).
Pros: Witnessing the city’s joyful reawakening. Beautiful light. Fewer crowds than in summer.
Cons: The weather can be very mixed – a beautiful sunny day can be followed by a snowstorm, even in April. This is the “in-between” season.
Summer & The Midnight Sun (June – August):
The Vibe: Energetic and endless. The sun barely sets, leading to long, magical evenings where the sky never truly gets dark. The city is alive with festivals (like the famous Olavsfest in late July), and everyone is outdoors, enjoying the parks, the fjord, and the waterfront.
Pros: The best weather for hiking, kayaking, and exploring. Endless daylight for sightseeing. A vibrant, festive atmosphere.
Cons: Peak tourist season, meaning higher prices and more people. You will not see the Northern Lights.
Autumn & The Student Buzz (September – October):
The Vibe: My personal favorite season. The air turns crisp, the forests of Bymarka explode in a riot of gold and red, and the city is re-energized by the return of tens of thousands of NTNU students.
Pros: Stunning autumn colors. A lively, youthful atmosphere. Perfect hiking weather. Fewer tourists than in the summer.
Cons: The days get shorter, and the rain becomes more frequent.
Getting to Trondheim: Your Journey to the Fjord
By Air: You will fly into Trondheim Airport, Værnes (TRD). It’s a modern, efficient airport located about 30 minutes east of the city. It has excellent connections to Oslo, Copenhagen, and Amsterdam, as well as other European cities.
My Go-To for Finding Flights: I always start my flight search on WayAway. It’s a powerful aggregator that scans hundreds of sites to find the best prices. For a destination like Norway, where flights can be pricey, their WayAway Plus membership, which offers cashback on flights and hotels, is a fantastic way to save a bit of money for the important things (like a really good cinnamon bun).
Your Seamless Arrival in Trondheim: From the airport, you have two great public transport options: the airport express bus (Værnes-Ekspressen) or the local train. Both are excellent. However, for the ultimate in convenience, especially if you have heavy luggage or are arriving late at night, I recommend booking a private transfer with Welcome Pickups. You can pre-book online for a fixed price, and a professional, English-speaking driver will be waiting for you at arrivals. It’s the most relaxing, door-to-door way to start your Trondheim adventure.
By Train: The train journey from Oslo is one of the most beautiful in Europe. The Dovre Line (Dovrebanen) takes about 7 hours and winds its way through stunning national parks and mountain plateaus. Book your tickets well in advance on the VY website for the best prices (minipris tickets).
Getting Around Trondheim: Buses, Bikes & Your Own Two Feet
On Foot: Trondheim’s city center (Midtbyen) is very compact and incredibly walkable.
Buses & Trams: The city has a fantastic public transport system run by AtB. You can buy tickets via their app, from machines, or at select kiosks. The historic tram line, Gråkallbanen, is an attraction in itself, taking you from the city center all the way up to the beautiful recreation area of Lian in Bymarka.
Bicycle: Trondheim is a great cycling city, but it is hilly! To help with that, you can find the world’s first and only bicycle lift, the Sykkelheis Trampe, on the steep hill up from Bakklandet. It’s a quirky and beloved local feature.
Finding Your Koselig Corner: Where to Stay in Trondheim
Your choice of neighborhood will define your Trondheim experience. Do you want a postcard charm, modern convenience, or a student vibe?
Bakklandet: The Postcard-Perfect Heart
This is the charming, historic neighborhood on the east side of the river, famous for its colorful wooden houses, cobblestone streets, and independent cafes and boutiques.
The Vibe: Incredibly charming, romantic, and peaceful. It feels like a village within the city.
Best for: Couples, photographers, and those seeking the most atmospheric and picturesque base.
Midtbyen (City Center): The Convenient Hub
This is the main commercial and cultural heart of Trondheim, located on the peninsula formed by the Nidelva river.
The Vibe: Bustling and convenient. You are right in the middle of the main shopping streets, museums, and restaurants, and just a short walk from the Nidaros Cathedral.
Best for: First-time visitors, those on a short trip, and anyone who wants to be in the center of the action.
Solsiden: The Modern Waterfront
This former shipyard area has been transformed into a trendy, modern hub.
The Vibe: Modern, lively, and a bit more upscale. It’s the city’s primary spot for nightlife and dining out, with a long strip of restaurants and bars with sunny outdoor seating.
Best for: Foodies, those seeking nightlife, and travelers who prefer modern hotels.
Elgeseter & Near NTNU: The Student & Budget Vibe
Located south of the city center, across the Elgeseter Bridge, this area is home to the main NTNU university campus.
The Vibe: Youthful, energetic, and more residential. You’ll find more affordable accommodation options here.
Best for: Budget travelers and those visiting the university.
Your Secret Weapon for Booking the Perfect Stay
My Unbeatable Accommodation Finder: For finding that perfect hotel with a fjord view or a charming guesthouse in Bakklandet, I rely exclusively on Booking.com. Their selection in Trondheim is excellent, from the grand Britannia Hotel to cozy, budget-friendly options. The most valuable tools are the verified user reviews and the brilliant map feature, which lets you see exactly where a property is located. It’s the best way to find a place you’ll love in your ideal neighborhood.
The Ultimate Trondheim Bucket List: From Gothic Spires to Colorful Wharves
This is it. These are the experiences that make Trondheim so special.
Nidaros Cathedral (Nidarosdomen): The Soul of Norway
This is the absolute, non-negotiable heart of Trondheim. It’s the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world and the national sanctuary of Norway.
The History: Built over the burial site of St. Olav, the Viking king who brought Christianity to Norway, it has been a major pilgrimage site for a thousand years.
The Experience: The scale and detail of the Gothic architecture are breathtaking. The western facade is covered in incredible sculptures of biblical figures and Norwegian bishops. The interior is vast and awe-inspiring, especially the stunning stained-glass rose window.
Climb the Tower: In the summer, you can climb the 172 narrow, winding steps of the central tower. It’s a tight squeeze, but the reward is the most spectacular panoramic view of Trondheim and the fjord.
The Archbishop’s Palace & Crown Jewels: Adjacent to the cathedral is the Archbishop’s Palace, which houses a fantastic museum and the Norwegian Crown Jewels.
Bakklandet & The Old Town Bridge (Gamle Bybro)
This is the view you’ve seen in pictures, and it’s even better in real life.
Gamle Bybro: Walk across this beautiful, red-painted wooden bridge, often called the “Portal of Happiness.” The views of the colorful warehouses are iconic.
Bakklandet: Spend a few hours getting lost in the cobblestone streets of this incredibly charming neighborhood. It’s filled with historic wooden houses, quirky independent shops, and some of the city’s coziest cafes.
Kristiansten Fortress (Kristiansten Festning)
Perched on a hill overlooking the city, this 17th-century fortress offers the best vantage point for understanding Trondheim’s layout. It’s a steep but rewarding walk up. The grounds are a lovely place for a picnic, and the views at sunset are epic.
The Nidelva River: The City’s Lifeline
The river that loops around the city center isn’t just scenic; it’s a playground.
Walk the River Path: A beautiful path follows the river for several kilometers, perfect for a gentle stroll or a jog.
Kayaking: See the city from a different perspective! You can rent kayaks and paddle right past the iconic Bakklandet warehouses.
Rockheim: The National Museum of Pop Music
A surprisingly fun and interactive museum dedicated to the history of Norwegian pop and rock music. It’s housed in a striking modern building on the waterfront, and it’s a great rainy-day activity.
Solsiden: The Modern Pulse
Experience modern Trondheim at its best. This “sunny side” of the old shipyard is where locals flock for dinner and drinks. The long strip of restaurants with their outdoor terraces is the place to be on a sunny afternoon.
The magnificent western facade of Nidaros Cathedral. Every statue tells a story in this Gothic masterpiece, which stands as the spiritual heart of Norway.
The Difference: Living Like a Local in Trondheim
This is the stuff I learned over five years. This is how you go from being a tourist to truly feeling the city.
Embracing Koselig: The Art of Norwegian Coziness
Koselig (pronounced koosh-lee) is a cornerstone of Norwegian culture, and Trondheim is its capital. It doesn’t have a direct English translation, but it encompasses a feeling of coziness, intimacy, warmth, and contentment.
How to find it:
Candlelit Cafes: Find a cafe in Bakklandet on a rainy day, order a coffee and a cinnamon bun (kanelbolle), and just relax. Baklandet Skydsstation is the undisputed king of koselig. It’s like stepping into your grandmother’s house, filled with antiques and charm.
Wool Blankets: Many cafes and bars offer wool blankets for guests sitting outside. Snuggling under one with a warm drink is peak koselig.
A Cabin Trip: The ultimate koselig experience is a trip to a hytte (cabin) in the woods with friends, a fireplace, and board games.
The NTNU Vibe: A City Powered by Students
With over 40,000 students, NTNU gives Trondheim its youthful, vibrant, and intellectual energy.
Tap into the Scene: Look for posters for concerts, events, and festivals. The main student union building, Studentersamfundet i Trondhjem (the big, red, round building), hosts countless events.
Eat & Drink for Less: The student-run cafes (SIT kafé) on the various NTNU campuses offer some of the most affordable coffee and lunch options in the city. You don’t have to be a student to use them.
Into the Wild: A Deep Dive into Bymarka
Bymarka is Trondheim’s magnificent “backyard forest,” a vast, protected nature reserve right on the edge of the city. For me, it was my sanctuary.
How to Get There: The easiest way is to take the Gråkallbanen tram to its final stop, Lian.
What to Do:
Hiking: There are hundreds of kilometers of marked trails. A classic and beautiful hike is from Lian up to the summit of Gråkallen (552m) for panoramic views.
Swimming: In the summer, the lakes (vatnet) are popular for swimming. Kykkelikoksvatnet and Haukvatnet are great spots. The water is… refreshing!
Cross-Country Skiing: In winter, Bymarka transforms into a world-class skiing area with groomed and illuminated trails.
A Taste of Trøndelag: The Ultimate Trondheim Food & Drink Guide
Trondheim and the surrounding Trøndelag region have recently emerged as a major European culinary destination, with a focus on incredible local, seasonal ingredients.
Must-Try Local & Norwegian Dishes
Sodd: The quintessential party food of the Trøndelag region. It’s a simple but delicious soup with mutton or beef meatballs and diced vegetables in a clear, flavorful broth.
Raspeball (or Kumle): Hearty potato dumplings, often served with salted meats, bacon, and mashed rutabaga.
World-Class Seafood: Being on the fjord, the seafood is exceptional. Look for fresh cod (torsk), salmon (laks), and incredible scallops (kamskjell).
Brunost (Brown Cheese): A uniquely Norwegian thing. It’s a sweet, caramel-like cheese made from whey. Try a thin slice on a waffle or a piece of bread. It’s an acquired taste, but a true taste of Norway.
Waffles (Vafler): Norwegian waffles are typically thinner and softer than Belgian waffles, often heart-shaped. They are served with sour cream and jam, or slices of brunost.
The Coffee & Craft Beer Scene
Coffee: Norwegians are serious about their coffee. You’ll find a thriving scene of specialty coffee shops (kaffebrenneri) roasting their own beans. My old haunt, Jacobsen & Svart, is a must-visit for coffee purists.
Craft Beer: Trondheim has a fantastic craft beer scene. Trondhjem Mikrobryggeri is a classic, cozy brewpub. The more modern ØX Tap Room offers a huge selection of local and international craft beers.
Where to Eat
High-End: Trondheim has several Michelin-starred restaurants, including Credo and Fagn, which focus on hyperlocal, sustainable ingredients.
Mid-Range:To Rom og Kjøkken (“Two Rooms and a Kitchen”) is a fantastic brasserie. The restaurants at Solsiden offer a great variety.
Budget: This is tricky in Norway. Look for good lunch deals (dagens rett), grab a legendary kebab from Mir Kebab, or eat at the student cafes.
Navigating the Norwegian Krone (Without Crying): Budgets & Prices
I won’t lie to you. Norway is expensive. But with some planning, a trip to Trondheim is absolutely manageable. The currency is the Norwegian Krone (NOK). (Prices as of late 2025, approximately 11 NOK = 1 EUR / 1 USD)
Dinner Main Course at a Mid-Range Restaurant: 250 – 400 NOK
Loaf of Bread at Supermarket: 30 – 40 NOK
Entrance to Nidaros Cathedral: ~120 NOK
Being a Good Guest in Norway: Sustainable & Responsible Tourism
Norwegians have a deep connection to nature, and responsible tourism is second nature here.
The Pant System: When you buy a can or plastic bottle, you pay a small deposit (pant). Don’t throw them away! You can return them to a pant machine at any supermarket and get your deposit back. It’s an easy way to recycle and save a few kroner.
Respect Allemannsretten (The Right to Roam): This ancient law gives everyone the right to access and enjoy nature, even on private land. However, it comes with a profound responsibility: leave no trace. Camp at least 150m from the nearest inhabited house, don’t light fires in summer, and pack out everything you pack in.
Support Local Food Producers: Visit the Bondens Marked (Farmers’ Market) when it’s on to buy incredible produce, cheeses, and cured meats directly from the people who make them.
Use the Excellent Public Transport: The bus and tram system is fantastic. Use it instead of taxis to reduce your carbon footprint.
Your Trondheim Go-To Guide: Practicalities & Pro Tips
What to Pack
Layers, Layers, Layers: The weather can change in an instant.
Wool is Your Best Friend: A merino wool base layer is a lifesaver in any season.
A Waterproof and Windproof Jacket & Trousers: This is non-negotiable, even in summer.
Good, Waterproof Walking Shoes.
A Smart Casual Outfit: Norwegians are generally casual, but it’s nice to have something a bit smarter for a nice dinner.
Money, Health & Connectivity
Currency: Norwegian Krone (NOK). Norway is a nearly cashless society. You can pay for almost everything with a credit/debit card (tap-to-pay is everywhere).
Your Smart Money Companion: To avoid terrible exchange rates and foreign transaction fees, I always use my Revolut or Wise card. They are perfect for Norway’s cashless environment.
Staying Connected – The Easy Way: My go-to for instant connectivity is an eSIM. Yesim is a fantastic service that lets you buy a data package for Norway and install it on your phone before you go. You’re connected the second you land.
Health & Safety: Trondheim is an incredibly safe city with a very low crime rate.
Your Unbreakable Safety Net: For any trip, but especially to an expensive country like Norway, where you might be hiking or doing outdoor activities, travel insurance is an absolute must. I always use VisitorsCoverage. It’s a marketplace where you can compare different policies and find one that covers your specific needs.
Renting a Car: You don’t need a car in Trondheim, but for exploring the region, like the scenic Den Gyldne Omvei (The Golden Road) in Inderøy or the UNESCO mining town of Røros, it’s a fantastic idea. For this, I recommend using GetRentacar.
My Final Word: The City That Becomes a Home
You might arrive in Trondheim as a visitor, a tourist ticking another city off your list. But if you give it time, if you allow yourself to sync with its gentle, steady rhythm, something magical happens. You stop just seeing the city and you start feeling it. You find your favorite bench along the Nidelva, your go-to cafe in Bakklandet, your secret hiking path in Bymarka.
I came to Trondheim for a degree, and I left with a second home. I left with a deep appreciation for the beauty of a long, dark winter and the explosive joy of a sun that refuses to set. I left with a love for the quiet confidence of a city that knows it doesn’t need to shout to be heard. It is a place of profound history, of brilliant minds, and of a simple, soul-deep coziness that will stay with you long after you’ve left. It’s a city that doesn’t just show you its heart; it invites you to become a part of it.
Your Trondheim Story Awaits! Let’s Keep the Adventure Alive…
And there you have it. My heart, my memories, and five years of my life distilled into a guide for a city I will love forever. I’ve tried to give you not just the “what” and “where,” but the “why” and the “how” – how to feel the city’s pulse, how to find its hidden corners, and why it’s a place that will capture your heart if you let it.
But this is just the start of our journey together. A Tiny Traveler is more than just a blog; it’s a vibrant community of curious explorers who believe that travel is about connection, understanding, and joy. And I would be absolutely honored for you to join our global family.
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So go to Trondheim. Walk across the Gamle Bybro. Find your favorite koselig corner. Hike in Bymarka. And let this wonderful city work its quiet magic on you. And when you come back, I’ll be here, eager to hear every single detail.